The stalls open at dusk

Forty kitchens, one wet street, and a map that changes every Friday. This week the charcoal line is longer and the bao steamer never sits idle.

Stall 12 · Coal and glaze

Pork and scallion skewers hit the grill at 6:30. Ask for the dark glaze. It is only on the board until the coals fade.

Stall 27 · Steam and fold

Three folds, chili oil on the side, and a line that moves if you know to order by number. 4 is pork. 9 is mushroom.